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Fire Escapes: How to Inspect and Refurbish Without Burning Money
By Steven Varone and Peter Varsalona
A fire escape on your building is in bad shape. Steps, slats and railings are wobbly — some are even missing. Several of the anchorages into the building are loose, and the metal is severely rusted throughout. Aside from it being a visual eyesore, it's a safety hazard.
Is it possible to repair the fire escape without replacing the whole, expensive assembly? It is — here's how.
An unsafe fire escape violates the New York City Building Code, and cooperative or condominium is not only subject to Department of Buildings violations and penalties, but you could also be liable if anyone is injured because of it.
When properly maintained, a fire escape should last as long as the building itself. Like any exterior component, a fire escape is exposed to the elements, and because it is typically made of metal, it's subject to rust and deterioration. But unless the fire escape as a whole is coming loose, it's unlikely you need to install a new one.
Step One
Your first step to refurbishment is to have your engineer examine the fire escape — in particular the loose anchorages — to assess if it's structurally sound. The engineer should note all bent, loose or missing parts, such as steps (also called treads), railings, slats, bolts, the supporting steel beams or angles that attach into the face of the building, cracked or missing caulking or bricks around the penetrations, rust, flaking paint, and any sharp edges or pieces of metal. Don't forget to check the drop ladder that hooks on the fire escape's second-floor landing.
Most repairs are straightforward: tightening loose bolts, welding, scraping and painting. The most critical elements are the steel beams or angles that penetrate the building wall and provide structural support for the fire escape. If they show signs of wear, they may need a supporting angle or reinforcing plate welded to them.
If the steel is badly deteriorated, however, the beams will need to be removed and replaced, which requires removing the brickwork or masonry around the joints where they penetrate the wall. All joints around penetrations should be caulked to keep water out. Not only will water corrode the beams and loosen the fire escape's supporting members, but it will also damage the brickwork and allow leaks to seep into the building. Loose steps, railings, platform slats, handrails and other metal pieces should likewise be bolted or welded as necessary.
Stepping Up
If the paint is peeling or flaking, you'll need to hire an environmental firm to test it for lead and asbestos. If either is found, New York City law requires a lead and/or asbestos abatement project. This major procedure involves hiring a lead/asbestos abatement firm, which must follow strict federal rules, such as using a wet-based removal method instead of dry scraping (which produces airborne particles) and sealing all windows to prevent hazardous dust or residue from entering apartments.
If the paint doesn't contain lead or asbestos, the contractor can use standard paint-stripping methods with the usual precautions. To keep everything in uniform condition, paint the whole assembly at one time, rather than just portions of it.
Refurbishing your fire escape will not require a work permit from the Department of Buildings unless more than ten square feet or four linear feet of masonry is being replaced. If your building is in a New York City-designated historic district, you'll need to obtain a permit from the Landmarks Preservation Commission.
Once this is done, have regular inspections. As part of the building's exterior, maintaining fire escapes in sound condition is mandated under the Building Code and New York City Local Law 11/98. So, at a bare minimum, every five years an engineer or architect performing the Local Law 11/98 façade inspection on your building should look for any unsafe conditions — which includes debris or such items as flower pots, blocks or bricks used to secure window air conditioners, or anything else that could fall or obstruct entering or exiting.
At least once a year, have your the building's superintendent or another maintenance staffer walk down the entire length of the fire escape to conduct a hands-on inspection. They should step on every step, grip each railing and feel for sharp edges, They should look for rust and corrosion, loose connections to the building, and missing steps, railings and slats. Don't ignore minor repairs. Over time they accumulate and worsen until the fire escape is in need of extensive work.
Stepping Out
A few other things: Residents cannot block a window that is the only way of getting to the fire escape. Window air conditioners cannot extend so far out that they block egress. And the building cannot have an awning, fixture or other obstacle obstructing the drop ladder from reaching the ground.
A fire escape is a critical part of a building's emergency plans. You hope you will never have to use it. But if you do, it needs to be ready and reliable.
Stephen Varone and Peter Varsalona are principals at Rand Engineering & Architecture.
Adapted from Habitat July / August 2008. For the complete article and more, join our Archive >>
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03/09/2010 05:51 pm
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03/07/2010 08:16 pm
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